Another mini-post to help keep you up to date with my life in Isaan.
One of the concerns I had about retiring to a small rural village in the northeast of Thailand 600 km plus away from the more farang orientated places like Chiang Mai, Pattaya, Phuket and Bangkok, was how would I fill my days. Visiting out of the way places like where I live might be interesting as a change in scenery for a few days on holiday but for a lifetime?????? Sometimes even a brief spell in Isaan can be too much for some. I came across this post on Facebook, and I felt for the guy being so totally out of his comfort zone:
Isaan Staying at a farm near Nakhon Phanom for an annual holiday. The wife can handle it as she lived here most of her life. 3 nights so far with 9 more nights to go. Critters found inside the home. Bugs Serious looking stinging insects flying Frogs Some large black spiders A scorpion Plenty of mosquitos Lizards with an attitude I will not be calling this a 5-star holiday. 6 cows outside my bedroom window shitting all day and night smells great. Tonight, I will be sleeping with one eye open. Just on dark tonight I wanted to go out on the road out front of the home and push my son in his stroller to sleep. Wife stops me and says don’t go past the front gate. I said it’s ok on the road. It’s not dangerous (2 cars pass a day) She says…..my father said it’s no good on the road at night as there are ghosts passing by on the road. Faark aye. 9 more days of this. Then go back to work. First and last time staying at her family home.
Almost everything he talks about it totally true if you find yourself in a traditional Isaan family/house situation and it is why I was so definite about building a home of my own to western standards giving me an oasis and refuge from what is often regarded as normal here.
The following small events are an example of why I find most days have enough to keep the interest levels engaged and boredom isn’t part of my everyday.
3 Aug 2018 – Buffalo Plough
I have had my eye on a wooden buffalo plough that has been sitting outside the rice hut next door for a while now. The owners are not in residence so we haven’t been able to ask if it was for sale. Today as we headed to the farm for coffee a truck was parked there and as a result I am very happy to add another little piece of Isaan farming history to my collection. At 200 baht or $8.00 I think it was a bargain!
There were more farming implements stored out the back at one time but they have since been burnt 
As is quite often the case, it’s the foreigners who have more an interest in their adopted country’s history than the locals. I am on the hunt, or more to the point one of my brother-in-laws is, for a wooden fishing boat to add to my collection. I will report on that story as it develops.
The plough is now part of my small ‘Essentials of Isaan’ collection.
Speaking of new additions. I am so pleased to hang this ‘Welcome to Paradise’ sign hand made by Greg of Noi’s Kitchen HERE and handed over in a small ceremony involving beer yesterday. It takes pride of place above the cocktail table in the rice hut.
And this place gets as close to paradise that I have come across – on a limited budget 🙂
3 Aug 2018 – An unusual Street Party
I love the spontaneous festivals that kick off at any time for any reason. This one was advertised as part of the 5:30 am village loudspeaker announcements. I was asleep (there are some aspects of a rural life I am not participating in) but Gaun was up cooking breakfast for Peng and told me over coffee post-8:00 am 
Money was being raised for the local hospital and as part of that effort there would be a Si Bun Ruang street party in the afternoon with a Lum band, my favourite. Lum is a percussion group with a single guitar and heaps of drums. It doesn’t sound too impressive on a video but in real life I guarantee it gets your feet tapping.
We took over the main street shop of friends of ours even though they were driving to Udon Thani! A couple of beers from the shop next door and we were ready to be entertained.
The main street was mainly closed off and this intensely colourful procession took over. This is the main money ‘tree’ sitting on an old wooden cart. I was tempted to make an offer on it and ask them to deliver it to the garden after the parade 🙂
The Lum band. This is totally an Isaan sound. If I ever had to leave Thailand hearing a Lum group would always bring me back ‘home’.
Now there’s a drum with history.
Most were seriously working on the drums but this lady burst into a smile when she saw me taking a photo.
This was a display of salings, the motorbike and sidecar that are an essential part of transport in Isaan. I have never seen them dressed up and in procession like this. Great.
As always one of the joys of an event like this is capturing the Thai smiles. If you look as though you’re enjoying yourself and smile first you will be rewarded ten times in return.
Even looking at the photos make me smile.
Our village was involved so there were plenty of familiar faces. ‘Hello Tony’ was called out a couple of times.
You see these salings selling ice cream, loaded up with market produce, filled with people and everything in-between. They only cost and $250.00 to add to a motorbike so you can understand their attraction.
Love the colourful display of umbrellas too. Very sensible and Isaan people take great care not to expose their skin to the sun. They all want to be milky white like us.
It was a big affair.
Young and old.
Young and old.
Good efforts put in by individual salings like this one.
The Si Bun Ruang police force were out in numbers directing traffic away from the main street. They are always very organised in events like these and immaculately turned out. Note the camera on his helmet.
Not all the observers were human.
And this one to finish the parade. Still on the to-do list for my pickup!
5 Aug 2018 – Lighting the New Garden
Two days of installing new garden lighting paid dividends tonight with everything coming alive once the switch was flicked. Evenings are some of the nicest times to be outside especially in the hotter seasons and this improvement makes that experience all the more enjoyable.
7 Aug 2018 – A farm Update, for you virtual Isaan farmers out there.
Wet season crops on the market garden side of the business include coriander, dill, lettuce, sweet corn, long beans and bok choy.
Preparing the soil is a three stage process. A big tractor comes in to do the initial ripping, a more refined break up of soil is done my this little multi-purpose tractor and then….see next photo.
The seed beds are built up by hand. Yuan and Lud working here. Because everything is grown from seed they are given protection using this shade netting.
The other two crops being grown this time of year are rice, both steamed and sticky versions, which are only produced for family consumption.
In the background above is sugar, which gives a cash return early 2019. Yuan and Lud have been saving to complete their house in the family compound. If this year gives a decent return they will be in a position to finish it. No bank loans for this family. Note how tidy even the rice paddies are. Lud cuts the levy banks to give easy access and to minimise the spread of weeds into the rice. This is Isaan farming at its best. The family land goes to the trees in the very far background behind the tall ones.
The rice is looking great. Although we are surrounded by places experiencing lots of rain we have had practically none. The rice paddies are being keep going by pumping bore/well water to keep them flooded. Rice grown well in water but flooding also keeps the weeds down.
This is Gaun’s small ‘pa/pha’ on part of her land (forest). She planted new teak trees last year and they are now well established. Once again undergrowth has been cleaned and paths kept mown (Gaun’s work this time).
The mix of flowers and crops is always a pleasure. Very unusual in Isaan.
Everything grows well here especially the weeds.
Yuan and Lud spend literally days hand weeding those seed beds and here Gaun is clearing around the very sad pond so she can plant new Dok Khun (Golden Shower) trees. We need another two metres to come anywhere close to filling the pond and at the current rate of rainfall that won’t happen this year. There is a thought to refloat my floating sala (hut) whatever but we will see how that works out.
Gaun on the slasher.
These are essential pieces of equipment in Isaan. Fully exposed steel blades that I am sure would never be approved in western countries but like many things here you are expected to behave like an adult, rather than have government hold your hand.
8 Aug 2018 – Flower Garlands
It’s the Thai Queen’s birthday on the 12th and a whole new industry springs up for a few days – making the flower garlands you see everywhere in Thailand, usually being sold for 20 baht at traffic lights. Because of the demand for these flowers for birthday celebrations people who don’t usually make garlands now do and they become both more elaborate and expensive.
Out at the farm this morning we delivered a bucket load of flowers from our garden to Yaun, who is never slow to make money if she can see an opportunity, and called in to see a neighbour Nit Noy, who is an expert and produces some of the best examples I have seen. I also took a few photos of the flowers that represent some of Gaun’s farm garden, to again illustrate the delightful blend of crops and colours I mentioned in yesterday’s post. Our regular water delivery completes today’s contribution to everyday life in Isaan.
These are Nit Noy’s (also one of the best Thai massage ladies in Isaan along with Nun in Nong Bua Lamphu HERE and will sell for 100 baht. Nit has made 30 so far so it is a good money maker.
Just beautiful detail.
Stunning colours.
All the flowers are picked locally. These are the original plants for some of the ones used in the garlands. These are at Nit’s farm but originated from our garden. We have masses of them but they aren’t blooming yet.
The small white flower buds that always make up the bulk of these garlands. The stems are threaded onto cotton using a long needle.
Our contribution to flower making.
One of Yuan’s garlands and Gaun’s flowers. Yuan’s aren’t as complex as Nit’s and sell for 50 baht. Gaun has just left home to help Yuan make them and I will publish a few more photos later. I can feel a lunch and a beer at the farm coming up.
This is the road that runs past the farm and ends up at a small forest temple. Gaun has planted the edge with purple and pink flowers. The seeds for these originated from her garden in Chiang Mai and also some seeds she was given in Chiang Rai.
The entrance to the farm.
Flowers merge into vegetables at the back.
The master gardener on an inspection tour.
The wet season isn’t the most prolific for many flowers but there are still bursts of colour.
Small hedges have been planted in between bougainvillea, which will come into bulk flower starting October as we head into the dry, cool season. This is the driveway that runs down to the farmhouse.
I used to have a complex water filtration system for drinking water, which used to get clogged up because the RO (Reverse Osmosis) filter was so fine.
A regular replacement at 1,200 baht ($50.00) resulted me in swapping to just having water delivered at 12 baht a 20 litre container. These guys get their water from a first rate place in Nong Bua Lamphu. They phone us every three weeks, turn up at the gate, take away empty containers and replace with new ones. At about $2.50 every few weeks for all our drinking water it’s not too much of a strain on the budget.
9 Aug 2018 – A Mix of Stories
A few small happenings that might be of interest to those people who follow these almost daily updates. A mix of topics as always seems to be the case. Flowers, floating sala (hut), cooking, a snake visitor and the jackfruit girl.
Gaun and Yuan are still making flower garlands at the farm. As always in Isaan a mat on the floor is the only requirement for eating, sleeping, socialising or in this case having a beer and working.
I needed to make some repairs the decking of my floating sala before relaunch, which required me to get underneath.
As the structure was sitting on the ground I thought we could slightly raise the area I wanted to work on so I could wriggle under it. Gaun decided that this wasn’t acceptable for someone of my very advanced age and organised family and neighbours to come over and raise the whole thing up so that I could work in comfort. Totally unknown to me as I expected to give a hand I arrived out to the farm yesterday to find my boat like this
Not only that but Yuan had sent Lud off to buy food and beer to thank everyone involved.
So not only did I get the boat raised but I was also invited to have lunch paid for by my in-laws. I wanted to reimburse but it wasn’t accepted. The generosity and thoughtfulness of this family is a wonder even after five years of knowing them. There are three other helpers not in this photo.
A scene I thought worth capturing today. Lud had been out mushroom hunting this morning and so soup was on the menu for lunch. So much food that is eaten here is foraged locally.
Noodles for me prepared by Gaun. Everything you need to cook for a dozen people in this basic but totally functional kitchen at the farmhouse. Note the homemade flame protector around the gas bottle.
I was visited by a snake this morning hiding behind the speaker closest to the sliding door.
We get a few snakes passing through but this was the closest one has got to the house. There are lots of frogs around in the wet season and the snakes are hunting. As always for me it confirms what a sensible decision it is to have insect screens on all entry points to a house. If this door was unscreened, as you often see in Thai houses and some farang ones, then that snake might well have got inside. I am not too concerned with them in the garden but not in my lounge room!
The double entry door is a common feature in houses built here.
All good as long as they are screened, which they mostly aren’t. It isn’t just the snakes. There’s a list of creatures big and small happy to join you inside including scorpions, mosquitoes, geckos, lizards, frogs, flying insects and those huge centipedes that are around especially this time of year.
I come from Australia, which also has a range of creatures you want to remain outside, including a range of the most deadly snakes and spiders in the world, but insect screens on doors and windows are standard. I don’t think you can buy them without screens. Why not here?
I couldn’t resist an update photo of the jackfruit lady. Her crop is looking pretty good and I love the mix of colours.
Thanks for reading and if you enjoyed the stories please leave a comment below. This is a free non-commercial resource, and I love hearing from readers. For all my regulars a big hi and thank you as always.
Tony
Hi Tony,
Sitting here on Saturday morning immersing myself in another wonderful postcard from Isaan, after a fairly tumultuous week down here in OZ. More than a little envious mate, in fact as green as Guan’s garden with envy. Still, at the end of August only 122 weeks to go…
What really struck me reading this post was how much I miss the pace of village life and how it makes the days so enjoyable – we were in Yuri’s village this time last year for a week. I didn’t want to leave. Part of the reason I’m so envious I guess. Also full credit to the author whose writing paints such great pictures. That poor guy whose FB post you copied above just doesn’t get it.
Yuri heard me playing the Lum YouTube clip and was straight in here looking over my shoulder – she became a little bit homesick after watching some of the clip. I can see a trip to our favourite Thai restaurant is on the cards as a result.
Cheers mate…Greg
No one can match the political oddity of the USA but Australia is giving it a shot. What a nonsense about nothing. All about egos and zero thought about running the country.
Gaun’s garden is just amazing. The photos don’t capture just how impressive it is. We have a lot of ground cover happening now and plants that are a couple of meters high but also the tall shade trees to be are making good progress and in three years the large expanse of open sky we have now will be largely filled in. The garden will change character again as plants that enjoy sunshine will be replaced with more ferns and shade loving varieties.
The blog condenses my involvement in village life. Of course I love joining in whatever is happening, but most of the time we live within our compound oasis and time is spent doing things like what I’m doing now – catching up with correspondence. Having a base that is comfortable and a joy to spend a lot of time in is vital to my sanity here. I just wouldn’t want to cope with living ‘local’ style all the time. I find it is a wonderful balance and one you will become used to in 122 weeks 🙂
Hi Tony,
You are on the money with the below comment, it describes my every day thoughts as I count down the days to our next Issan return trip. Can’t wait to see the garden, if we are fortunate enough to be invited one day. House warming invite coming your way soon.
The Lum band. This is totally an Isaan sound. If I ever had to leave Thailand hearing a Lum group would always bring me back ‘home’.
Hi Jon.
Thanks for that. I am planning a trip ‘your way’ soon to see the house from the outside and also pop into see some land another reader has bought close to you. I am sure you have lots of photos already but maybe I can add a few more. Hard to say if you are happy with the end result until you see it but I hope it all worked out smoothly to this point.
We look forward to showing you the garden and a housewarming party is always a positive event so this is a pre-acceptance for when the invitation is made. Maybe the budget will extend to a lum band 🙂
I can certainly relate to weed infestations here in Thailand, it’s a never ending battle to control, I say control because at minimum that’s all you can hope, I was a Greenkeeper for half my life, weed control was a very important part of the job, using selective herbicides in a weed management plan, weeds didn’t seem to grow as profusely as they do here, it’s a hundred percent germination where we live, it astounds me where they (weeds) come from, wind blown, carried by ants and birds, or magically grown by the weed spirits, even with rice husk mulch they still come through, not much at all bothers me living here, everyday is a small adventure, along with my amazing wife, family and friends, I can only be contented, sorry about the weed rant Tony, I feel better now, love sharing your insights on your day to day life….cheers!…. but those bloody weeds!!
Do you have a problem with weeds Shane or am I reading too much into your comment 🙂 Feel free to download your frustrations here. Cheaper than therapy.
When we first started the new garden I thought ‘what have we got ourselves into’ because the beds were being taken over by weeds. Now with Gaun’s mass planting schedule I just wander round in the morning with a coffee and pull out the few I see and that mostly keeps it under control. Poor old Yuan and Lud have bigger challenges and Gaun struggles with keeping the weeds under control at her extensive farm gardens. A reader put me onto this product HERE, which I am sure would be helpful but the cost would be greater than the return on vegetable sales. Yuan and Lud take it all in good spirits as just part of the cycle of farming. Time is seen differently here by locals as you’d know. We might see days weeding as a waste while a Thai person just relaxes into it.
Cheers.
Thanks Tony, I will try to track down this pre- emergent herbicide, I don’t really mind weeding,my weed rant was a bit of an exaggeration, my greenkeeping mind just haunts me sometimes, all the best to you and your family, I look forward to your next Issan adventure…cheers!
Another wonderful post on life, in what should be a sleepy village, that is anything but… I’m trying to learn some lum songs (sound) on the guitar, which seems to be mostly pentatonic scales with variations. There are no chords, maybe because it’s origin is a three or four string phin like in your Youtube video. The saling is an integral part of Thailand, and reminds me of the popular sidecar for Western motorcycles, only more versatile. Night lighting brings a whole new perspective to your garden and mine. Tony, we are a country with “rednecks, or hicks”, so of course we have dangerously sharp exposed blades affixed to the end of a weed wacker. If Nit gives a massage half as good as the beautiful garlands she makes, then count me in as a customer. Of course, my last Thai massage in 2009 resulted in me passing out from the painful ordeal of a large Korean lady crushing me as she walked on me. You are right about replacing RO filters is absurdly expensive (just did mine $$$), and this is our answer to seawater desalination? Once again seeing your family being so wonderful in this recent example with the sala, and not asking for anything in return, makes me so envious. Can I exchange my brother for any one of them?! We used to catch snakes, turtles, lizards, frogs, various insects, etc., and let them go in the house. My mom just figured she was raising boys, so this is what she gets.
P.S. Here’s hoping “Welcome to Paradise”, is a beckoning to humans and not termites. .
Great write up, and no it’s not a boring rural setting,
Jim
Thank you again Jim.
I love the way you contribute to each story in the post by adding your own insights.
I find a long session with lum can become boring to my western ears but I love a good band. The best one is a video I have shared before so you may have seen it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REbqMVYUie4 This group was in our moo ban and were terrific and the sound I captured has a good balance with the percussion, which is so central. The crowd were really getting into it too. Totally catching. 7,000 baht to hire this group for a street session.
The saling is such a sensible addition to a motorbike. A work vehicle during the week and the family transport at all other times. Better a saling than five on a motorbike in my opinion.
Lots of other positive comments Jim that I won’t cover individually. You know I appreciate them.
Your ‘Farming in Isaan’ is still happening slowly, which is the pace of life I prefer to live these days.
Tony
Hey Jim……try the common cold !……just joking…..yes I think that Thailands biggest saving grace….in the city anyway.
You know the saying….”smile & the world smiles with you”
Frown & you`re on your Pat Malone…..SMILE is one of my favourite songs.
If there is anything more infcetious than a Thai smile, I still have not experienced it!
So true Jim. The downside to living here is that I have never smiled or laughed as much in my life. The wrinkle factor has increased as a result…..but it’s a price I am willing to pay 🙂
Hi Tony……..thanks for ALL the lovely colourful photos…your whole blog is interesting…I`m going to forward it to a friend in OZ that is just about to go on another WWOOFing trip(willing workers on organic farms & alternative building)they go & help out in return for meals & accommodation….I did it also.
The garden has grown incredibly fast & looks amazing…as you said with lights….ahhhhh…..I never had a guard on my brush cutter & even dug roots out with it..wearing glasses of course…I used to borrow a large bed former after I had ripped,disc ploughed & cultivated & it was so easy….I think you could build a scaled down one to go on the small tractor….I also had an Italian Valpadana little cultivator which was magic & a little push along seeder with different wheels for different size seeds….I had two donkeys & a mouldboard plough…but only for show…although I did plough with a donkey once & was amazed at the ease….I used the plough to dig a furrow to propagate bamboo in….grew Water Chestnuts also & built a water blaster venturi suction tool for harvesting…..guy I know did it on a big scale & even had a grader he built….you have to enjoy farmimg.
Hi Clem.
I thought I would reply to this post to thank you for your contributions to many posts. I really enjoy reading insights into your situation and experiences both here and back ‘home’. I hope that at 80 I retain as much engagement with life as you obviously do. Keep ’em coming.
Best regards.
Tony