As Thai/western spelling is based on phonetics, meaning how a Thai word sounds in English, you can end up with lots of different variations for the same thing, all of which are basically correct. It is why search for places in Thailand using a GPS can be frustrating because where you want to go MAY be there if only you could work out how it is spelt 🙂 This wat comes under the same category. On Google Maps it is only named with Thai script and my “translation” is based on my wife Gaun’s pronunciation and my interpretation of those sounds so I could be close or not! Anyway it is something like the title of this post or it could also be spelt Pha Si Vichi. As pha/pa is Thai for a group of trees, a forest or grove of trees in English, this makes this wat one of the many forest temples in our area. Whatever its name this temple is one of the most impressive timber I have seen in Thailand and even more extraordinary as it is situated in the backstreet of a small Isaan town, called Nong Bau Lamphu, capital of the province of the same name.
The best way to find it is to look out for the huge Thai Watsadu DIY store on the right as you head west out of Nong Bua Lamphu on the 210 and it is almost directly behind that. Google Maps HERE, including my review of the place.
The way I find a lot of the places covered in this blog is by recommendation and this temple was no different. The tip came from an English guy called Greg who with his wife Noi owns a small restaurant, a short drive from our hometown of Si Bun Ruang. For Facebook people you can find Greg and Noi HERE. Because there are few westerners writing blogs like mine in our part of Isaan it is hard to get to find such places by relying on the internet alone so I am always grateful to locals like Greg for their tips.
Your introduction to the wat is in the main parking area, where you have a sort of Mad Max moment.
This is a very small part of this extraordinary wat. Absolutely spotless as you’d expect from a forest temple, which in cleanliness often leave the normal village wats for dead.
This is on the first level of the building in the previous photo. These small tents are used by visitors who want to sleep over and not get bitten to death by mosquitoes. Just look at that roof structure.
These are monk rooms or storage and are scattered throughout the wat.
Typical of these timber temples in that the natural wood is cleverly stitched together to form the supporting structure such as this ceiling. It would be much easier if using milled wood.
A continuation of building One.
Gaun inspecting the ceiling. How do they work out what goes where?
The view from the temple to Thai Watsadu the DIY place on the main road.
Stairs and a shuttered room. I like the burst of colour to break up the plain timber.
The main hall area of this building looking back at the some of the accommodation section.
There was us, five monks (we only saw three) and a yai (grandmother – mum of the boss monk). Not a tourist bus in sight! Absolute bliss. Moving to the main Buddha hall and beyond is Yuan, my sister-in-law and Gaun.
Smaller “normal” features like this added interest and variety.
Wow. These are holding up the floor of the Buddha hall. Compare their size with Gaun. Massive. This whole underfloor area has been concreted and swept. Spotless.
More wow. If you had to buy this timber you’d be up for a huge cost. This is hardwood and super expensive here.
The main staircase to the Buddha hall. Gaz, a friend from Australia, Yuan, Lud and me.
And this is the staircase itself.
I just LOVE this hall. It is large, beautiful with the colours of the timber and then the simple golden Buddha shrine at the end. Hard to beat.
Our friend Gaz is taken in by the timber. As an ex-carpenter he found this place amazing.
The Buddha shrine.
The detailing is outstanding.
Gaz checking out the monk’s chair. I was told it took two years to carve by hand.
Even a storage area is organised and what a setting!
Yet more building in the distance – a utility area!
What a stunning structure.
A whole forest was chopped down to build this place.
More character stairs.
You will find eight of these stones surrounding a temple and one located centrally.
Although the main entrance to the temple is a concrete wasteland, once you get behind that it is definitely a pha/pa/forest temple as shown in the following photos.
Notice how all the paths have been swept of leaves. You will only see that sort of detail happening in a well run forest temple.
This is the machinery “shed” on the right flowing into the trees.
These pavers are huge and very thick.
Looking back to the main part of the temple through the trees.
The Buddha hall from another angle.
Another monk room, which is on a structure built over a small river at the back of the temple.
Gaun on that structure.
This is a two storey building built into the river. Its purpose….because they could I think!
Spot Gaun. The monk offered us some of this floating greenery, but next time.
And for something completely different. One of the practical ways this wat raises money is through a huge cactus farm run by the abbot’s mum. Like everything here it is beautifully organised and impressive in its scope.
The combination of a wat and cactus is a new one for me.
This gives you some idea of the size and layout.
I am not a cactus sort of person but some of these were very beautiful.
Some were selling for up to 1,000 baht so the whole area was caged and locked.
A huge range of flowers and shapes.
Nature is far more creative than we’ll ever be.
Sold to local plant places.
And so it goes and goes.
Last one.
Gaun buys this cactus for 100 baht or $4.00. Our contribution to wat extensions of the future.
Now included as part of our garden at home.
Finding this place after we have lived in Isaan for well over three years gives me hope that there are still gem attractions to be found and that I should never give up looking for them and sharing them here of course.
I hope you enjoyed seeing this amazing wat. Thanks for reading and leave a comment. It’s the only payment I ask for what is for you a completely free Thailand resource.
Tony
IMHO the most impressive of all your posts on Wats Tony. A real pleasure to immerse myself in as part of a very enjoyable morning making my way through your most recent posts and the first two chapters of Becoming the Truth – will need an early morning with no distractions before progressing on to the next chapters.
My sincere thanks Tony – so much to enjoy from this morning’s catch up from Tony In Thailand.
We were back there today as Peng hadn’t seen it before and we had some shopping to do at Thai Watsadu and Makro. Just as impressive the third time.
I wonder what you’ll make of the non murder-mystery 🙂 A specialised read but I have a feeling some of it may resonate.
Thanks for your comments Greg. I do look forward to meeting you sometime.
Hi Tony that is one impressive looking Wat. It intrigues me as to how those massive timbers was put into place. I do not know why but as a Christian I am drawn to Buddhism perhaps it their attitude and approach to life, when I have visited Wats with Nong I just have an overwhelming sense of calmness and peace with oneself more so than visiting church in my homeland!
Thank you for the information.
Regards
Chris and Nong
We came across a few pulleys in our wonderings so I suspect the timbers may be winched into place. I have been following the progress of the small forest wat down the road from the farm – a photo in Living in Isaan – Edition 11. They have some massive timbers that must be more than 10 metres off the ground. I have never been there while they were moving them otherwise I would be better informed. I will keep my eye open.
I am not a Buddhist either, although my mother was and my sister is, but I enjoy the sense of calmness especially in the forest wats.
Hello Tony, Congratulations on yet another great post, especially this one. Wat Pa See Vichi in its ‘natural’, yet elegant, simplicity could be considered the opposite end of the religious wood-working spectrum to the ‘formal’ more stylized version found at the Sanctuary of Thruth in Pattaya – each of them admirable in their own way and both impressive witnesses to the human spirit. As a life long builder whose favorite building material always was and continues to be wood, I am touched by both examples. We certainly plan to visit Wat Pa See the next time, Sue and I find our way to Isaan Country.
Congratulations also on your rice-hut addition. What a pleasing reminder of things past and traditional, so remarkably well adapted to your beautiful home!
Suwapat and I are back from America since March. Can’t wait to head North again. The Mekong has been calling me ever since I dipped my toes into that great water for the first time about a year ago. Sue and I enjoy coastal living in Ban Phe, Rayong province, well enough, but Thailand’s North is always on our minds.
Best regards to Gaun and Peng and the family.
Hans (SeaBeeDog)
Thank you so much Hans.
I will get to see the Sanctuary of Truth at some stage. A stunning donation to Thai culture and must see for anyone in the area. I am pleased that I have encouraged you to visit our simplified example when next this way.
Thank you also for your enthusiasm for the rice hut. It has become one of my favourite places to contemplate life with a morning coffee or evening cold drink. I hope I have motivated other farang in the area to think about doing the same so we can save a few of these iconic Isaan structures from becoming firewood.
If you do make it back Mekong way and have the time and inclination we would love to see you both. We’re about an hour south west from Udon Thani.
Kind regards.
Tony
Tony, agree that this forum / blog is attracting like minded individuals so perhaps an outing / meet up could be organised some time. Personally, for my attendance late Oct Nov would be perfect. Lads, thoughts?
Cheers
Derek
Hi Derek.
Thanks for the comment. We would be pleased to see you if you’re in the area later this year. Always great to catch up with blog readers.
Tony
An amazing forest Wat that we all would never have seen thanks Tony. Not far from you too!
Thank you Ian. It is certainly one of those welcome Thai surprises.
Cheers.
Tony
Hi Tony from Jim CA,
Just got back so finally getting in a comment to your posts. This wat could be included in the Elvish World of JRR Tolkien, or a Roger Dean Cover for the latest Yes Album! Unbelievable use of large pieces, of what appear to be, dissimilar pieces of wood come together in harmony with the right eye. Rather than cut or trim a piece to fit, they seem to let the piece find it’s own way to unify with the others. A definite must see! As for the Dan Sai Ghost Mask Festival, I was amazed at the almost 3D visual interpretation on some, which reminded me of Spanish or Mexican artistry.
The Rice Hut, turned, outdoor relaxing area, is coming along nicely for your future Thoreau inspired moments with nature.
Lastly, I must impress upon you that your writings about your spiritual and transcending journey, is not to ever be mentioned as something we should skip over,or avoid. My dearest Tony, everyone’s ideas on life and our journey through life is what separates the evolved mankind from the rest. It is when we repress someone’s ideas or words that we are the lesser. All your words are to be taken with the deepest of appreciation. It is one of the main reasons I choose to read your posts on Thailand over others, because you try to present your topic through the eye of the Thai people, rather than subjugating others to assume you know what is happening.
On a lighter note, I am amazed at the coming together of countries to rescue those boys and their coach trapped in the cave in Chiang Rai. However, if that had occurred on US soil, you would not be hearing from anyone but someone’s lawyer suing the coach, or for Christ sake, the damn cave itself. Monumental achievement for all involved.
Cheers,
Jim in CA
Your comments are always a joy to read Jim.
Generally the news only gives an insight to the worst side of any country. It is a welcome reality check to hear from someone like you and know that as everywhere, behind the news there are decent, caring people you’d be happy to sit down with for a drink and a chat. The blog seems to attract those type of people and it is one of the huge benefits that keeps me involved. Your thoughtful observations on each topic are a rarity and much appreciated.
I do hope we have the opportunity to meet up at some stage for one of those drink/chat moments!
My very best regards.
Tony
Just read your reply Tony, and wanted say thank you that I seem to intrigue you with my thoughts. Ironically, when in college, one of my suite mates was a direct descendant of Nietzsche, and another suite mate did his PhD dissertation challenging a part of Heisenberg’s principle. So, we were not always a beer drinking, pot smoking lot talking about girls, and sports, but sometimes, things got pretty weird. That get together for a beer sounds great, and for now, I will toast to your health with a great Belgian Tripel. Until we can meet, take care, and keep writing!
Jim
Jim. If we do meet up I better tell you now that I prefer small words 🙂 I had to Google the Heisenberg principle as quantum mechanics has never intruded too much into my conscious life.
With that qualifier out in the open I shall keep my invitation on the table!
Tony
This one looks an absolute gem Tony! It’s fair to say that in general I am a lot less drawn to Wats (or indeed any buildings of worship worldwide) than you are – but what I do enjoy enormously is the spirit and energy and “togetherness” that generally surrounds most of the Wat complexes we have visited. There seems to be more joy in Buddhism than in any other major religion or belief system …… or maybe that is unique to Thai Buddhists.
Also, just occasionally, the settings and (less often) the structures are also breathtaking. This one certainly ticks both those boxes, and I get the impression this would be a very serene place to spend a little time.(??)
Cactus farm is also pretty mid-blowing in scale.
Thanks so much for showing it to us. ….. It’s on the list!!
Mike
The attraction to wats for me is that there is no other half-decent architecture in Thailand other than temples. The public buildings are rubbish and obviously smaller places outside Bangkok don’t have too many museums, art galleries or historical places of interest that have been preserved. I find even Bangkok to be extremely limited. Some places try with a museum or two but the public money just isn’t there to support them and, like Australia, the preserved history isn’t very plentiful. My mother was a Buddhist and my sister still is but I am not formally. I do like their more open approach and of course Buddhism is more a way of living rather than a formal religion. Thailand takes its Buddhism both seriously and also with a big dose of fun, like everything else.
This wat is certainly one I would happily spend time and, as it is largely unoccupied most of the time by the looks of things, it would be a peaceful experience and that is a state beyond religion.
Tony
Tony,
Another great story and fabulous wat ,I love the Cactus ..Ning and I both adore cactus’s and want to incorporate lots in to our Home … we will be taking a trip up therefor sure …Thanks again for sharing your finds.
Thanks Derek. It is a super find for those like you who love cactus. The combination of the temple plus the nursery makes this a worthwhile day out. POp in to see us if you have the time. We are 30 minutes away.